Everybody’s Talking

It’s not suppose to be this annoying! I’ve read the alteration books, used the techniques, measured, marked, snipped and pinned; then I usually throw something.

The problem with buying a commercial pattern is that they’re drafted on an ‘average’ - in this case it’s a “B” cup bust-wise.  I haven’t been a “B” cup since my teen’s.

If you go and use a larger size pattern, the cup size isn’t changing, but everything else is!

The picture here is of a commercial pattern I picked up at a garage sale.  I just really liked it and the size-range was doable.

I had some nice rayon that would drape nicely too; this is one of the big advantages to hording fabric - the odds are real good you have something in your stash that’s perfect.

After settling on version 1 - without the second underskirt - I started measuring and marking the pattern.

A general rule of thumb is to spread open your pattern (in the bust area horizontally) about 1/2″ for every size beyond the “B” cup. That means I’d have to add 4″ to my pattern. Yeah, I’m laughing too.  I actually tried that once a very long time ago: you could have fit a whole additional set of boobs in there with me.  Stop counting - I’m a DDD - between a 36 an a 38 DDD.  Terrifying isn’t it!

In this case, I added to the cup size about 1″ and tapered it to nothing at the size.  I cut out a test pattern, sewed up front and back and put it on the mannequin. Hmmm not bad - it might be okay.  The back seemed a bit too large at the top, but, I needed to sew up up for real and find out.

Well that was fun. Now what! There were issues… lot’s of em.

1. Gaping too much at the arm hole - need to add a bust dart
2. Too big through the upper back - need to add 2 darts from the neck to the mid-back where the waist darts are
3. The bust are is too wide (not too full - too wide) will regather 2 inches tighter each side
4. Need to take in the skirt 2 inches; French seams everywhere though, so a nice 2″ pleat on each side will help.

Here’s the first finished version - I made it work, but will fully alter the pattern to accommodate all the changed I’m making.

What I ended up doing to the pattern was:

• Removing 1″ from the front bust seam on each side to control the width
• Removed 4″ from the upper back!  That’s a tremendous amount of unneeded fullness - big bust does NOT necessarily mean big back.
• Lowered the neckline 2″
• Curved the neckline deeper - about 1/2″
• Removed 4″ total from the width of the skirt
• Added side bust darts and redraft the arm hole accordingly

And here’s the second version - I’m much happier with it!  Sorry for the only one-view picture, I’ll try to take another few soon.

 You can see how much better the bust area fits; and that in turn shows off the waist! The wider neck is more flattering to my shape and the armholes fit well.

I have a workable pattern now that is going to get a lot of use.  The next time you have to alter the bust area of your pattern, just send a little sympathy my way and be grateful you’re not fitting the DDD syndrome too.

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Well I consider it a toy though I’m sure others wouldn’t - I bought myself a new serger! Whooo hooo!!!

The old one was… old…about 15 years old actually. While it would be perfectly fine for the casual home sewer, the demands I placed on it were just too strenuous after all this time.

It’s a good thing sewing machines don’t have a ‘machine union’, because I’m pretty sure I’d make the ‘do not go home with this woman’ list. I’m a bit hard on them.

Anyway, this is my third serger since 1987; the first was a New Home, the second a Bernina Fun-Lock that I won at a design competition, and now I’m back to the Janome (formerly known as New Home) machine.

I called up a small independent shop I’ve been going to since 1987. In fact they had only been open two-months the first time I walked through their doors. Diane and Jim Stutsman are part of that amazing group of business owners that truly care about their customers.

The Sewing Room has moved three times and expanded each time; I told them if they move any farther away from me, I was going to have to pack an overnight case! The oh-so-important factor is that they know me: they know how I sew, what I insist of my machines, what I need and don’t need, what bothers me, what I don’t care about.

I trust them completely in providing me with the perfect machine for what I’m doing.

After the ‘transaction’ is complete, we sit and catch up on families, business, trends - and Jim and I talk technology, Apple computers and wonderful Geek-speak! Try doing that that at your local chain store.

Support your Independent Fabric, Sewing, Quilting and Sewing Machine Stores - both the brick-and-mortar and online only shops!

So you’re wondering, what did I get? Well….. I got an 1110DX - and boy is it nice. Middle of the group, not the most expensive nor the cheapest, but a workhorse.

I’ve already sewed a couple of personal garments to test it out and a heavy-duty light-blocking liner for the bedroom drapes. She just fly’s!

The particulars:

• 2 and 3 / 4 thread overlock
• Regular type needle HA or 15×1SP
• 1 - 5mm seam length
• 3.5mm (regular); 5.7mm (wide); 2.0mm (narrow) seam width
• 0.5 - 2.25 differential feed ration
• Front and back needle guard
• Color coded thread guides
• Snap-on presser feet
• Electronic speed control
• Easy to follow upper thread guide
• Dual feed dogs and differential feed
• Adjustable cutting width
• Easily retractable upper knife
• Easy to reach lower looper guides
• Quick change rolled hem
• Solid metal base plate

Love it, love it, love it!

If you’re in the Dallas area, stop by The Sewing Room - 8500 Gaylord Parkway, Suite 4, Frisco, Texas 75067. 972-315-1489. sale@sewingroom.com. Tell them Annie sent you!

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