The Dreaded Mitered Binding
I have avoided doing a mitered binding for years. Literally. While I think they look terrific, my skill in producing one correctly verged on zip.
Yes I know, that makes no sense - they aren’t hard to do at all. But for some stupid reason (unknown to me of course), I mangled every single attempt. So I decided avoidance was the way to go!
That method of coping as worked successfully for many years… until now. I’m in the middle of a new pattern (you’re going to love it!), and it really does need the nice, neat mitered binding.
The first mitered binding on test sample #1 of the new pattern took years; well it felt like years! I had my favorite sewing book on the counter “Good Housekeeping’s Complete Book of Needlecraft” by Vera P. Guild - © 1959, as a reference.
I’d start, stop, double check, read, start, sew, stop, re-check… I was driving myself crazy. This was a mitered binding - not a hand tailored three-piece suit!
The picture above shows the results of that eternal binding. Simple, clean, and professional looking. So why did I have such a problem doing it? I have no idea.
I’m working on the final test pattern sample now; version 4. With all due boasting, I can now whip out a mitered binding so fast, you’ll get whiplash. Obviously something in my brain finally ‘clicked’.
Why is it the simple techniques give us the most trouble?
Here are some diagrams and simple instructions so you can create a nice mitered binding - just in case you’ve been practicing the ‘avoidance’ technique too.
The Mitered Binding
I cut my binding to the desired width (this example is using a 1/2″ finished binding - so I started with a 2-1/4″ wide piece) and I added an additional 8″ in length. Yes, this is too much, but I would much prefer to have to cut off the extra, then have to add another piece at the end.
Line the binding up with your finished edge and turn under 1/4″ - 1/2″ of the end on the starting point (this will be your finished end). Pin. Measure and mark from the next edge the finished binding width. Huh?
My finished binding will be 1/2″ - so I’m going to mark a point 1/2″ from the next edge at the stitching line. This is where I will STOP sewing.
Make sense? Good! Sew that piece of your binding down.
Clip your threads and remove the pins. Now, you’re going to take the long end of your binding and fold it UP. See how it creates that nice 45 degree angle where you stopped sewing?
Make sure the edge of the binding is lined up with the edge of your fabric.
Carefully fold that binding back down along the fabric edge - keeping the fold lined up with the TOP of the fabric. I use a ruler to help get that fold even with my fabric edge by folding the binding over the ruler and moving the ruler to line up with the fabric.
Because I want to make sure and start sewing at the correct point when I sew the next section, I insert a pin from the back - at the exact stopping point of the first line of stitching - through all the binding to the front. Then I mark that point and remove the pin.
Pin this next section of binding into place and sew down. You already marked the exact starting point - and you know to stop just like you did on the first side.
Do the same thing for all 4 sides. When you come to the ‘beginning’, allow no more then a 1″ overlap - it’ll get too bulky otherwise. Trim any extra binding fabric away and finish machine stitching.
Press and turn the binding the backside. The corners almost seem to fold themselves into place (I was so impressed by that!). Hand or machine stitch the back binding down.
Stand back and admire your gorgeous mitered bound edge. Are you good or what!