What Size Do I Use?
“I am trying to figure out what size to use in making a dress from a Vogue pattern. According to my measurements:
- I need a size 12 or 14 for my bust
- A size 16 for my waist
- A size 12 for my hips.
In ready made clothes, I wear an 8 or 10 in quality brands and a 10, rarely a 12 in bargain brands. The last time I used my measurements to pick a pattern size to make a fitted suit, I used a 14 and it was huge (too big to even alter well).
I’m going to make this dress out of $40/yard silk, and I don’t want to end up with the wrong size. My plan is to cut it out of some muslin first, so I can make sure of the fit, but I still don’t know what pattern size to start with. Thank you for your help.” — Beth
“PS Is the high bust or the regular bust more important for size selection?”
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Hi Beth, and welcome to the world of non-consistent, non-realistic sizing. Someday, if we all scream enough, maybe we can convince the pattern companies that real woman have hips and waists and boobs.
Since the bust is the most important part to fit first, use the sizing that comes closest to your bust. If you’re between - choose the larger size. And remember, it’s only a number - it doesn’t mean anything :).
Have someone else measure you - over good undergarments - in as many ways as possible. The minimum would probably consist of:
- shoulder-to-shoulder
- nape to waist
- neck to waist
- upper arm
- lower arm
- upper bust
- regular bust
- lower bust
- waist
- high hip
- regular hip (catch that tummy)
- full hip
- fullest thigh area
- waist-to-knee (if you’re going to be wearing a straight skirt)
After you’ve done all that, you can work on the paper pattern to match as closely as possible to those new numbers; don’t forget the ease. Then cut the pattern out of muslin and do some real fitting.
Keep in mind any special fitting issues: sway back, high hip, full bust, dowager hump etc., you’d have discovered these little joys when you did the measurements. Build that into the paper pattern too.
As to high-bust or regular bust being more important, that’s one of those ‘ it depends’ questions. But to me, the regular full bust is the most important. That lets us allow for the maximum fabric needed through the top, and we can fit around it.
Hope this helps!