Initially creative-artsy software was designed for the Mac and more business-style software for the Windows systems. Over time the two have merged and there is relatively little difference in available software; most companies provide version for both OS’s – and Linux also.

Unfortunately this split is still obvious in some fields – pattern drafting software is one of the casualties. There are a number of programs out there that you can run on your Mac using Virtual PC, Parallels, Boot Camp etc., but you cannot run it as a real Mac program. Why don’t these companies design versions for both, especially considering the Mac is still a major choice for the creative field, I wish I knew!

I did try a few of these programs over the years, and still on occasion try a demo version just to see what they’re like.

Let me put it this way, if I wanted to run a windows based piece of software I’d use a true PC. I’m sure there are a great many folks very happy with their PC, and that’s perfectly okay… I simply don’t like them.

Now, where was I before going off on that Mac vs PC tangent?  Oh yeah, the best pattern drafting software I’ve ever used: Cochenelle. They have versions for both Mac (built from the ground up for the Mac OS) and Windows. The company has just celebrated its 20th year!

I’ve been using their software since far before Apple/Mac moved to the OS X operating system (it’s been a long time), and from the start I was blown away. The improvements and upgrades have been stunning. A lot of the newer Windows software is now implementing the same features we’ve been using for a number of years now. Here’s a PDF flyer you can download talking about all the features.

The innovator behind this is Susan Lazear: Professor of Fashion at Mesa College, oversees the Fashion Computer Lab (designs the courses too), author of several books – an amazing woman!

I started using the Garment Styler software and moved to the Garment Designer program; both are extremely affordable. The also have add-on modules, Stitch Painter software, books, design aides, videos… classes, support groups.

What have I done with it? Well it was used to help create, size, and draft out Coloring Blocks, Celtic Dreams, and Keshy. I’ve done a lot with it, but those other garments were just for me, after all, I’m worth a few custom outfits.

Below are some screenshots (reduced in size to fit, but still give you a pretty good idea of what the interface and working area is like.)

This is where you enter very personalized measurements to help you get the correct sizing and fit.

This shows you how much control you have over all the curves, angles, lines and shape of your garment in the interface; it’s a true CAD style interface.

Control such as this is a key factor in truly being able to customize and modify your design(s).

Without features such as this, you are extremely limited in what you can and cannot accomplish.

Here’s a screenshot of a working sloper in the Mac interface.

And this is an example of a working screen: front, back and sleeve of the garment, darts, measurements, all numbers diagrammed, points, seam allowances, facings – and above the pattern pieces themselves, you can see some of the built in drop-down menu options.

This is a thumbnail view – click on it to see the larger image, though still reduced a bit in size for online viewing. Click your browser back-button after viewing to get back to this page.

The image towards the beginning of this post, is of a ready-to-go completed top design as you’d see on your screen – without all the diagramming numbers.

Here are some of the high-points of the Garment Designer software:

• Fit Control: Standard sizes – misses, women, petite, junior, men, children, toddles, infants and dolls.
• Simple and Refined Fit: up to 36 custom measurements
• Adjustments: dart width, angle, length
• Armhole: built-in armhole and sleeve cap intelligent adjustments (it does the work for you)
• CAD: pattern points, curves, line adjustments – click-and-drag control
• Finishing: personalized seam allowance width, hems, extensions, facings, bands
• Symmetry: built-in symmetry function to ensure all changes are made to all necessary pieces
• 1000 of pattern combination’s! Body, neckline, shoulder, armhole, sleeve, skirt, and pants
• Control: over what pieces you see, how you see them, what dimensions you use (decimal, fraction, metric)
• Storage: save and store all your customs sizing, designs, etc.
• Styles include: tops – contoured, a-line, straight; skirts – a-line, gored, wrap, slits; pants – straight, tapered, bell bottom; and an incredible amount more!

Again, this is just a few of the high points to entice you to learn more about Cochenille.

These are good people – a very small, dedicated group of people that care; they are not owned or a division of any of the big companies out there.

Yes, I’m completely enamored with this software and love the people behind it. As a disclaimer let me state that I do not work for or with Cochenille, never have.

Take 15 minutes and check them out, you won’t be sorry you did.

Annie

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1. I need a size 12 or 14 for my bust
2. A size 16 for my waist
3. A size 12 for my hips.

In ready made clothes, I wear an 8 or 10 in quality brands and a 10, rarely a 12 in bargain brands. The last time I used my measurements to pick a pattern size to make a fitted suit, I used a 14 and it was huge (too big to even alter well).

I’m going to make this dress out of $40/yard silk, and I don’t want to end up with the wrong size. My plan is to cut it out of some muslin first, so I can make sure of the fit, but I still don’t know what pattern size to start with. Thank you for your help.”  — Beth

“PS Is the high bust or the regular bust more important for size selection?”

——–

Hi Beth, and welcome to the world of non-consistent, non-realistic sizing. Someday, if we all scream enough, maybe we can convince the pattern companies that real woman have hips and waists and boobs.

Since the bust is the most important part to fit first, use the sizing that comes closest to your bust. If you’re between – choose the larger size. And remember, it’s only a number – it doesn’t mean anything .

Have someone else measure you – over good undergarments – in as many ways as possible. The minimum would probably consist of:

• shoulder-to-shoulder
• nape to waist
• neck to waist
• upper arm
• lower arm
• upper bust
• regular bust
• lower bust
• waist
• high hip
• regular hip (catch that tummy)
• full hip
• fullest thigh area
• waist-to-knee (if you’re going to be wearing a straight skirt)

After you’ve done all that, you can work on the paper pattern to match as closely as possible to those new numbers; don’t forget the ease. Then cut the pattern out of muslin and do some real fitting.

Keep in mind any special fitting issues: sway back, high hip, full bust, dowager hump etc., you’d have discovered these little joys when you did the measurements. Build that into the paper pattern too.

As to high-bust or regular bust being more important, that’s one of those ‘ it depends’ questions. But to me, the regular full bust is the most important. That lets us allow for the maximum fabric needed through the top, and we can fit around it.

Hope this helps!

< Back to Wildly Wonderful Wearables >

The problem with buying a commercial pattern is that they’re drafted on an ‘average’ – in this case it’s a “B” cup bust-wise. I haven’t been a “B” cup since my teen’s.

If you go and use a larger size pattern, the cup size isn’t changing, but everything else is!

The picture here is of a commercial pattern I picked up at a garage sale. I just really liked it and the size-range was doable.

I had some nice rayon that would drape nicely too; this is one of the big advantages to hording fabric – the odds are real good you have something in your stash that’s perfect.

After settling on version 1 – without the second underskirt – I started measuring and marking the pattern.

A general rule of thumb is to spread open your pattern (in the bust area horizontally) about 1/2″ for every size beyond the “B” cup. That means I’d have to add 4″ to my pattern. Yeah, I’m laughing too. I actually tried that once a very long time ago: you could have fit a whole additional set of boobs in there with me. Stop counting – I’m a DDD – between a 36 an a 38 DDD. Terrifying isn’t it!

In this case, I added to the cup size about 1″ and tapered it to nothing at the size. I cut out a test pattern, sewed up front and back and put it on the mannequin. Hmmm not bad – it might be okay. The back seemed a bit too large at the top, but, I needed to sew up up for real and find out.

Well that was fun. Now what! There were issues… lot’s of em.

1. Gaping too much at the arm hole – need to add a bust dart
2. Too big through the upper back – need to add 2 darts from the neck to the mid-back where the waist darts are
3. The bust are is too wide (not too full – too wide) will regather 2 inches tighter each side
4. Need to take in the skirt 2 inches; French seams everywhere though, so a nice 2″ pleat on each side will help.

Here’s the first finished version – I made it work, but will fully alter the pattern to accommodate all the changed I’m making.

What I ended up doing to the pattern was:

• Removing 1″ from the front bust seam on each side to control the width
• Removed 4″ from the upper back! That’s a tremendous amount of unneeded fullness – big bust does NOT necessarily mean big back.
• Lowered the neckline 2″
• Curved the neckline deeper – about 1/2″
• Removed 4″ total from the width of the skirt
• Added side bust darts and redraft the arm hole accordingly

And here’s the second version – I’m much happier with it! Sorry for the only one-view picture, I’ll try to take another few soon.

You can see how much better the bust area fits; and that in turn shows off the waist! The wider neck is more flattering to my shape and the armholes fit well.

I have a workable pattern now that is going to get a lot of use. The next time you have to alter the bust area of your pattern, just send a little sympathy my way and be grateful you’re not fitting the DDD syndrome too.

< Back to Wearables >

Anyway, I was going through the newest one and came to the mannequin section. Most are full-size, to scale (remember that – to scale) with the head included. Men, womens, and children’s for store clothing displays.

I scanned two images to share with you – I found them particularly interesting for a number of reasons I’ll explain in a bit.

Now, think about going into your favorite store and seeing an outfit on a display mannequin: you love it! You track down your size and hurry into the fitting room. Five minutes later you’re looking at yourself in the mirror and wondering what you’re doing wrong. This outfit doesn’t look anything like it did on the mannequin!

And my friends, the odds are it never, ever will look like it did on the mannequin. Here are the images I scanned.

Be sure you read the ‘stats’ beneath each image – I took it directly from their descriptions. Oh there were also an equal amount of size 4 models, but I couldn’t even force myself to scan those too. Just curious here, but how many of your friends are 5′-11″ with those measurements? Yeah, I came up with about the same amount: little more then 0, but less then 1.

Then there’s the Plus-Size model; someone want to let me know when a size 12-14 – a 14 by-the-way is the Average size of a woman living in the US – was moved into a plus-size category? Don’t forget she too is 5′-11″ tall. Oh and did you get a good look at her ’shape’? What part of plus-size are you seeing? I’m seeing someone very thin, with no stomach or hips, thin arms, legs and big boobs that will never sag.

And we wonder why clothes don’t look the same on us! NOT.

Want to know what a size 14 really looks like? Well here you go: 5′-5″, 51 years old, and a size 14.

And here’s another view – I keep saying Rubens would have just loved me!

Personally, I like curves… these ‘fantasy driven‘ manufacturers can have their mannequins, I think I’ll just keep on sewing clothes that flatter me; did I mention I really like curves?

< Back to Wearables >

Each one of those have some pretty straight forward suggestions on what to and even more important what not to wear.

Hourglass

I used to have this classic shape – actually I still do, but now Rubens would absolutely love me!

The Hourglass is suppose to be the ideal shape because the shoulders and hips balance each other width-wise, along with a narrow waist.

Now you’re ’suppose’ to show off that hard earned waist without putting undo notice on your bust or hips. I freely admit I showed off everything I could when I had this shape ages ago – I worked hard to get it and I wasn’t going to hide it!

What to Wear
Slim skirts, tucked-in blouses, belts, slim fitting pants, tailored clothing, princess-seams, lots of colors (feel free to contrast them against each other), you can even wear stripes!

Don’t Wear
Boxy or shapeless garments (you’ve got the figure, show it off!), untucked shirts, and if you’re full busted crop-tops or empire style dresses.

Triangle

Pretty obvious when you think about it, the Triangle is a smaller bust and larger hips – also known as a Pear-shape. So the goal here is to move the interest from the hips to the bust area. That will help balance the triangle shape out.

What to Wear
Scarfs around your neck, tops with contrasting trim, fancy details at the neckline, light colors for your tops and darker one for the bottoms. Wider collars (I like shawl collars), and shoulder pads work well too. Think about wearing your skirts a bit longer to help draw the eye away from the hips.

Don’t Wear
Anything that draws attention to your hips! That includes pleats, horizontal stripes, bulky fabrics, awful patch-pockets, and halter tops (shudder) or raglan sleeves.

Inverted Triangle

I know, didn’t we just do this? Just flip your body! Full bust, broad shoulders, sometimes full arms, and narrow hips. An Inverted Triangle is a reverse Pear-shape, so we need to move the attention from the bust to the hips.

What to Wear
Pleats, pockets, tops with peplums, skirts and pants with yokes, V-neck tops, dark colors for your tops and light colors for your skirts, pants, and shorts. Maybe a top that has contrasting color/bands around the bottom hem line.

Don’t Wear
Ruffles (unless you’re 5-years old), shoulder pads, tops with yokes, wide collars, very narrow pants or tapered pants. We really are reversing the rules for the Triangle here.

Rectangle-Slim

This body style always reminds me of the Elves from the Lord of the Rings! The shoulders and hips are the same with and there’s very little definition in the waist. The Rectangle-Slim is a waif like body style. So what you need to do is pretend there’s more shape then there really is.

What to Wear
You get to wear horizontal stripes! You’re the only shape that can safely. Wide shoulders, unstructured jackets, contrasting top and bottom colors (that means lots of colors top and bottom). Pleats, flared skirts and pants, bulky sweaters – I am so jealous.

Don’t Wear
Vertical stripes (that’s all most of us can wear), wider waistbands (draws attention to your waist), big patch pockets, or and large vertical patterns.

Rectangle-Wide

Waist? What waist? Sorry but this body style doesn’t have any waist definition at all. Your shoulders, bust, hips and waist are all about equal. What we need to do here is make your shape smaller and curvier.

What to Wear
Complementary colors, and muted – gentle shades – leave the bright bold colors for someone else. Shoulder and neckline details (pull the body upward), princess seams, sheath style dresses – we’re trying for vertical lines. Straight skirts, narrower pant legs, tops and jackets that end below the waistline.

Don’t Wear
Boxy garments (just like we tell the Hourglass) – but in this case all they do is make you look wider! Keep details above or below the waist area. Stay away from designs that have large, blocks of colors, again this will just make you look larger.

Well I think this is a good beginning for you to determine your specific Body Style and to help make sure that the clothes you buy-and-make are the best styles for you. Now get out there and Go Play!

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