Everybody’s Talking Sewing

It’s not suppose to be this annoying! I’ve read the alteration books, used the techniques, measured, marked, snipped and pinned; then I usually throw something.

The problem with buying a commercial pattern is that they’re drafted on an ‘average’ - in this case it’s a “B” cup bust-wise. I haven’t been a “B” cup since my teen’s.

If you go and use a larger size pattern, the cup size isn’t changing, but everything else is!

The picture here is of a commercial pattern I picked up at a garage sale. I just really liked it and the size-range was doable.

I had some nice rayon that would drape nicely too; this is one of the big advantages to hording fabric - the odds are real good you have something in your stash that’s perfect.

After settling on version 1 - without the second underskirt - I started measuring and marking the pattern.

A general rule of thumb is to spread open your pattern (in the bust area horizontally) about 1/2″ for every size beyond the “B” cup. That means I’d have to add 4″ to my pattern. Yeah, I’m laughing too. I actually tried that once a very long time ago: you could have fit a whole additional set of boobs in there with me. Stop counting - I’m a DDD - between a 36 an a 38 DDD. Terrifying isn’t it!

In this case, I added to the cup size about 1″ and tapered it to nothing at the size. I cut out a test pattern, sewed up front and back and put it on the mannequin. Hmmm not bad - it might be okay. The back seemed a bit too large at the top, but, I needed to sew up up for real and find out.

Well that was fun. Now what! There were issues… lot’s of em.

1. Gaping too much at the arm hole - need to add a bust dart
2. Too big through the upper back - need to add 2 darts from the neck to the mid-back where the waist darts are
3. The bust are is too wide (not too full - too wide) will regather 2 inches tighter each side
4. Need to take in the skirt 2 inches; French seams everywhere though, so a nice 2″ pleat on each side will help.

Here’s the first finished version - I made it work, but will fully alter the pattern to accommodate all the changed I’m making.

What I ended up doing to the pattern was:

• Removing 1″ from the front bust seam on each side to control the width
• Removed 4″ from the upper back! That’s a tremendous amount of unneeded fullness - big bust does NOT necessarily mean big back.
• Lowered the neckline 2″
• Curved the neckline deeper - about 1/2″
• Removed 4″ total from the width of the skirt
• Added side bust darts and redraft the arm hole accordingly

And here’s the second version - I’m much happier with it! Sorry for the only one-view picture, I’ll try to take another few soon.

You can see how much better the bust area fits; and that in turn shows off the waist! The wider neck is more flattering to my shape and the armholes fit well.

I have a workable pattern now that is going to get a lot of use. The next time you have to alter the bust area of your pattern, just send a little sympathy my way and be grateful you’re not fitting the DDD syndrome too.

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I have avoided doing a mitered binding for years. Literally. While I think they look terrific, my skill in producing one correctly verged on zip.

Yes I know, that makes no sense - they aren’t hard to do at all. But for some stupid reason (unknown to me of course), I mangled every single attempt. So I decided avoidance was the way to go!

That method of coping as worked successfully for many years… until now. I’m in the middle of a new pattern (you’re going to love it!), and it really does need the nice, neat mitered binding.

The first mitered binding on test sample #1 of the new pattern took years; well it felt like years! I had my favorite sewing book on the counter “Good Housekeeping’s Complete Book of Needlecraft” by Vera P. Guild - © 1959, as a reference.

I’d start, stop, double check, read, start, sew, stop, re-check… I was driving myself crazy. This was a mitered binding - not a hand tailored three-piece suit!

The picture above shows the results of that eternal binding. Simple, clean, and professional looking. So why did I have such a problem doing it? I have no idea.

I’m working on the final test pattern sample now; version 4. With all due boasting, I can now whip out a mitered binding so fast, you’ll get whiplash. Obviously something in my brain finally ‘clicked’.

Why is it the simple techniques give us the most trouble?

Here are some diagrams and simple instructions so you can create a nice mitered binding - just in case you’ve been practicing the ‘avoidance’ technique too.

The Mitered Binding

I cut my binding to the desired width (this example is using a 1/2″ finished binding - so I started with a 2-1/4″ wide piece) and I added an additional 8″ in length. Yes, this is too much, but I would much prefer to have to cut off the extra, then have to add another piece at the end.

Line the binding up with your finished edge and turn under 1/4″ - 1/2″ of the end on the starting point (this will be your finished end). Pin. Measure and mark from the next edge the finished binding width. Huh?

My finished binding will be 1/2″ - so I’m going to mark a point 1/2″ from the next edge at the stitching line. This is where I will STOP sewing.

Make sense? Good! Sew that piece of your binding down.

Clip your threads and remove the pins. Now, you’re going to take the long end of your binding and fold it UP. See how it creates that nice 45 degree angle where you stopped sewing?

Make sure the edge of the binding is lined up with the edge of your fabric.

Carefully fold that binding back down along the fabric edge - keeping the fold lined up with the TOP of the fabric. I use a ruler to help get that fold even with my fabric edge by folding the binding over the ruler and moving the ruler to line up with the fabric.

Because I want to make sure and start sewing at the correct point when I sew the next section, I insert a pin from the back - at the exact stopping point of the first line of stitching - through all the binding to the front. Then I mark that point and remove the pin.

Pin this next section of binding into place and sew down. You already marked the exact starting point - and you know to stop just like you did on the first side.

Do the same thing for all 4 sides. When you come to the ‘beginning’, allow no more then a 1″ overlap - it’ll get too bulky otherwise. Trim any extra binding fabric away and finish machine stitching.

Press and turn the binding the backside. The corners almost seem to fold themselves into place (I was so impressed by that!). Hand or machine stitch the back binding down.

Stand back and admire your gorgeous mitered bound edge. Are you good or what!

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