So let’s start this love affair off with sewing machine needles. I feel like I’ve used them all at one time or another, but if you look in my needle drawer, all you’re going to find are Schmetz.

When I was working on that Christening Dress for my newest nephew, they’re all I’d even consider using. I just love them.

Here we go, in no particular favorite order:

• Universal - rounded point, great for wovens and knits, an all around terrific needle.
• Denim or Jeans - reinforced blade and slight ball point, heavy fabrics don’t stand a chance of fighting. The ball point helps prevent damaging your fabric and skipping stitches.
• Stretch - special eye and medium ball point helps prevent skipping stitches and snagging. Great for knits, stretch fabrics and elastic too.
• Ball or Jersey - Ball point primarily for knit fabrics
• Leather - With a cutting point on the end, sewing leather is like cutting through warm butter. My leather version of the Lone Star Vest would not have been possible without this needle.
• Top-Stitch - If you’re doing decorative sewing, this is needle is for you. A very long eye 2mm, means threading and using heavy, fancy threads won’t drive you crazy. Good for using double threads too.
• Microtex - A needle especially for densely woven fabrics, micro fiber and synthetic leathers. It has an especially slim acute point.
• Hemstitch - I used a lot these when creating Heirloom Christening dresses! There’s a wing on each side with creates wonderful open work on light or medium woven fabrics; I used it on delicate cotton batiste with silk and rayon thread.
• Double Eye - Yes it has 2 eyes! Use two different threads at the same time - think of the possible effects. Good for both woven and knit fabrics because it has a univeral point.
• Embroidery - A larger eye and grove means this needle helps to make free-motion embroidery headache free. I do a lot of free-motion stipple work on our wall hangings, sanity matters!
• Metallic - While I will never enjoy sewing with metallic threads (I just sew too fast to really be nice to the thread), this needle helps a bunch. A enlarged grove and bigger eye mean less breakage and throwing things.
• Stretch Twin - Double rows of stitches, perfectly spaced, on knits or stretch fabrics. Thank you, thank you, thank you. 2.5 and 4.0.
• Metallic Twin - Same as for the stretch twin needle, now if I could only sew a bit slower… 2.5 and 3.0.
• Embroidery Twin - Yes we’re on a roll! 2.0 and 3.0.
• Double Hemstitch - Another favorite of mine for heirloom sewing. Has one wing needle and one universal needle - 2.5 mm separates them. Helps create amazing double row stitch designs.
• Universal Twin - Double rows on lots of fabric, think pin-tucks! 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 4.o, 6.0 and 8.0.
• Universal Triple - Yes I have these too. It’s worth the hassle of threading everything up - again, I use to use these on the Christening dresses with rayon and silk threads. Beautiful results every time.

It seems to be a failing that at one time or another, we’ve all used ‘cheap’ or generic sewing machine needles. While they might have got the job done, it was a struggle with them breaking, thread shredding and other delightful reasons that cause us to consider never sewing again.

It is not worth it.

Next time you’re in your favorite fabric shop, pick up a few packages of Schmetz needles and try them out. I guarantee you won’t be sorry you did.

< Back to Wearables >

The problem with buying a commercial pattern is that they’re drafted on an ‘average’ - in this case it’s a “B” cup bust-wise. I haven’t been a “B” cup since my teen’s.

If you go and use a larger size pattern, the cup size isn’t changing, but everything else is!

The picture here is of a commercial pattern I picked up at a garage sale. I just really liked it and the size-range was doable.

I had some nice rayon that would drape nicely too; this is one of the big advantages to hording fabric - the odds are real good you have something in your stash that’s perfect.

After settling on version 1 - without the second underskirt - I started measuring and marking the pattern.

A general rule of thumb is to spread open your pattern (in the bust area horizontally) about 1/2″ for every size beyond the “B” cup. That means I’d have to add 4″ to my pattern. Yeah, I’m laughing too. I actually tried that once a very long time ago: you could have fit a whole additional set of boobs in there with me. Stop counting - I’m a DDD - between a 36 an a 38 DDD. Terrifying isn’t it!

In this case, I added to the cup size about 1″ and tapered it to nothing at the size. I cut out a test pattern, sewed up front and back and put it on the mannequin. Hmmm not bad - it might be okay. The back seemed a bit too large at the top, but, I needed to sew up up for real and find out.

Well that was fun. Now what! There were issues… lot’s of em.

1. Gaping too much at the arm hole - need to add a bust dart
2. Too big through the upper back - need to add 2 darts from the neck to the mid-back where the waist darts are
3. The bust are is too wide (not too full - too wide) will regather 2 inches tighter each side
4. Need to take in the skirt 2 inches; French seams everywhere though, so a nice 2″ pleat on each side will help.

Here’s the first finished version - I made it work, but will fully alter the pattern to accommodate all the changed I’m making.

What I ended up doing to the pattern was:

• Removing 1″ from the front bust seam on each side to control the width
• Removed 4″ from the upper back! That’s a tremendous amount of unneeded fullness - big bust does NOT necessarily mean big back.
• Lowered the neckline 2″
• Curved the neckline deeper - about 1/2″
• Removed 4″ total from the width of the skirt
• Added side bust darts and redraft the arm hole accordingly

And here’s the second version - I’m much happier with it! Sorry for the only one-view picture, I’ll try to take another few soon.

You can see how much better the bust area fits; and that in turn shows off the waist! The wider neck is more flattering to my shape and the armholes fit well.

I have a workable pattern now that is going to get a lot of use. The next time you have to alter the bust area of your pattern, just send a little sympathy my way and be grateful you’re not fitting the DDD syndrome too.

< Back to Wearables >

The old one was… old…about 15 years old actually. While it would be perfectly fine for the casual home sewer, the demands I placed on it were just too strenuous after all this time.

It’s a good thing sewing machines don’t have a ‘machine union’, because I’m pretty sure I’d make the ‘do not go home with this woman’ list. I’m a bit hard on them.

Anyway, this is my third serger since 1987; the first was a New Home, the second a Bernina Fun-Lock that I won at a design competition, and now I’m back to the Janome (formerly known as New Home) machine.

I called up a small independent shop I’ve been going to since 1987. In fact they had only been open two-months the first time I walked through their doors. Diane and Jim Stutsman are part of that amazing group of business owners that truly care about their customers.

The Sewing Room has moved three times and expanded each time; I told them if they move any farther away from me, I was going to have to pack an overnight case! The oh-so-important factor is that they know me: they know how I sew, what I insist of my machines, what I need and don’t need, what bothers me, what I don’t care about.

I trust them completely in providing me with the perfect machine for what I’m doing.

After the ‘transaction’ is complete, we sit and catch up on families, business, trends - and Jim and I talk technology, Apple computers and wonderful Geek-speak! Try doing that that at your local chain store.

Support your Independent Fabric, Sewing, Quilting and Sewing Machine Stores - both the brick-and-mortar and online only shops!

So you’re wondering, what did I get? Well….. I got an 1110DX - and boy is it nice. Middle of the group, not the most expensive nor the cheapest, but a workhorse.

I’ve already sewed a couple of personal garments to test it out and a heavy-duty light-blocking liner for the bedroom drapes. She just fly’s!

The particulars:

• 2 and 3 / 4 thread overlock
• Regular type needle HA or 15×1SP
• 1 - 5mm seam length
• 3.5mm (regular); 5.7mm (wide); 2.0mm (narrow) seam width
• 0.5 - 2.25 differential feed ration
• Front and back needle guard
• Color coded thread guides
• Snap-on presser feet
• Electronic speed control
• Easy to follow upper thread guide
• Dual feed dogs and differential feed
• Adjustable cutting width
• Easily retractable upper knife
• Easy to reach lower looper guides
• Quick change rolled hem
• Solid metal base plate

Love it, love it, love it!

If you’re in the Dallas area, stop by The Sewing Room - 8500 Gaylord Parkway, Suite 4, Frisco, Texas 75067. 972-315-1489. sale@sewingroom.com. Tell them Annie sent you!

< Back to Wearables >

I now get to add to that list with a personal experience from May 5th, 2008.

I have been a loyal Kohl’s customer for over 9 years; a Kohl’s credit card user for 8 years. I’ve sung their praises all this time! Most of my family and friends are also Kohl’s customers.

–On a side note, they too have slid this past year or so in the public ranking. No longer are they the innovative, successful favorite. The Kohl’s closest to me I try to avoid because it always looks like a bunch of hyperactive 3rd-graders just tossed the place! –

Anyway I had an extremely frustrating phone call with them - it was the perfect example of telling your customer they don’t matter. Period.

I had downloaded my current statement and saw that they charged me $25 bounced check fee for my last payment.

1. I have automatic overdraft coverage on all my bank accounts
2. It was an online payment - so the “check” couldn’t have bounced
3. The payment was covered according to my online banking information

The representative I talked with couldn’t help me and had to keep putting me on hold. — Another side note here, she was very good at her job. Polite, respectful and the patience of saint in dealing with me, as I was plainly getting more upset as time progressed. I asked to have the call escalated and she immediately attempted to do that. Her current shift supervisor refused to talk with me.

So I reiterated to the representative that the supervisor was refusing to talk to a customer - I wanted to be very clear that that was what I had heard. A Kohls credit card customer since 2000 with an excellent payment record was having a supervisor refuse to help sort out the problem.

Yes, that was correct.

To say I was pretty much beyond furious at this point would have been an understatement; if I had been an animation, steam would have been coming out of my ears.

Eventually the representative did get the supervisor a Sxxxx Sxxxxxx at extension XXXX, to take the call - as she obviously reminded her that: ALL CALLS ARE RECORDED. And I had in fact confirmed on this recorded call that this shift supervisor was refusing my request to escalate/take the phone call.

While on hold I got online and pulled all the necessary corporate names: CEO, President and three Senior Vice-Presidents. The representative provided the addresses for the credit building and corporate offices; I had already researched that, but she of course didn’t know.

When this supervisor finally took the call:

1. I thanked her for putting her employee in such an un-winnable position
2. For treating the customer that badly and
3. For now losing a long-time customer.

I also explained I would be filing a formal complaint with the corporate office about the entire situation.

I closed my credit card account effective immediately.

If I treated my customers like that, I wouldn’t have any. It doesn’t matter that I was a small customer - I was a loyal, long-time customer.

If this is how Kohl’s feels about their customers, I’d rather not be one.

< Back to Wearables >

Yes I know, that makes no sense - they aren’t hard to do at all. But for some stupid reason (unknown to me of course), I mangled every single attempt. So I decided avoidance was the way to go!

That method of coping as worked successfully for many years… until now. I’m in the middle of a new pattern (you’re going to love it!), and it really does need the nice, neat mitered binding.

The first mitered binding on test sample #1 of the new pattern took years; well it felt like years! I had my favorite sewing book on the counter “Good Housekeeping’s Complete Book of Needlecraft” by Vera P. Guild - © 1959, as a reference.

I’d start, stop, double check, read, start, sew, stop, re-check… I was driving myself crazy. This was a mitered binding - not a hand tailored three-piece suit!

The picture above shows the results of that eternal binding. Simple, clean, and professional looking. So why did I have such a problem doing it? I have no idea.

I’m working on the final test pattern sample now; version 4. With all due boasting, I can now whip out a mitered binding so fast, you’ll get whiplash. Obviously something in my brain finally ‘clicked’.

Why is it the simple techniques give us the most trouble?

Here are some diagrams and simple instructions so you can create a nice mitered binding - just in case you’ve been practicing the ‘avoidance’ technique too.

The Mitered Binding

I cut my binding to the desired width (this example is using a 1/2″ finished binding - so I started with a 2-1/4″ wide piece) and I added an additional 8″ in length. Yes, this is too much, but I would much prefer to have to cut off the extra, then have to add another piece at the end.

Line the binding up with your finished edge and turn under 1/4″ - 1/2″ of the end on the starting point (this will be your finished end). Pin. Measure and mark from the next edge the finished binding width. Huh?

My finished binding will be 1/2″ - so I’m going to mark a point 1/2″ from the next edge at the stitching line. This is where I will STOP sewing.

Make sense? Good! Sew that piece of your binding down.

Clip your threads and remove the pins. Now, you’re going to take the long end of your binding and fold it UP. See how it creates that nice 45 degree angle where you stopped sewing?

Make sure the edge of the binding is lined up with the edge of your fabric.

Carefully fold that binding back down along the fabric edge - keeping the fold lined up with the TOP of the fabric. I use a ruler to help get that fold even with my fabric edge by folding the binding over the ruler and moving the ruler to line up with the fabric.

Because I want to make sure and start sewing at the correct point when I sew the next section, I insert a pin from the back - at the exact stopping point of the first line of stitching - through all the binding to the front. Then I mark that point and remove the pin.

Pin this next section of binding into place and sew down. You already marked the exact starting point - and you know to stop just like you did on the first side.

Do the same thing for all 4 sides. When you come to the ‘beginning’, allow no more then a 1″ overlap - it’ll get too bulky otherwise. Trim any extra binding fabric away and finish machine stitching.

Press and turn the binding the backside. The corners almost seem to fold themselves into place (I was so impressed by that!). Hand or machine stitch the back binding down.

Stand back and admire your gorgeous mitered bound edge. Are you good or what!

< Back to Wearables >

I don’t know about all of you, but I’ve been gung-ho on a lot of projects I realized after starting that is would have made more sense all the way around to have bought the stupid thing instead.

Do you feel the frustration flowing from those words? You’d think after awhile we’d learn… naw.

This lovely picture of yours truly - with the great big smile - is because I bought the dress I’m wearing instead of making it.

This was an easy decision! I found the dress on the web site of a well-known women’s clothing company - in the outlet/clearance section. I had also just gotten their print catalogue with a 40% off coupon attached.

Original price: $119.00 - my final cost: $16.29. Oh and $6.00 shipping. I would have had to been completely out of my mind to have passed this up.

If you click on this small image, you’ll see a full size picture of the dress. I just love it!

Anyway, this was a no-brainer, I wish they were always that easy.

In an effort to try and control my eagerness, I’ve come up with a check list of sorts that I use before tackling an “I still have two-days before that event, I have plenty of time to make something” project.

This list works for other dubious projects too, but this one is my usual downfall. So in no particular order:

1. How much time do you really have to spend on this?
2. How complicated is this thing?
3. Do you have everything you need?
4. If not, how long will it take you to get?
5. How much $$$ will you need to spend on supplies?
6. About how long will it take to really do?
7. Do you have to do much alteration of the pattern either for fit or style?
8. Will you need help with the fitting?
9. How many other things need to be done or taken care of at the same time?
10. What’s your drop-dead stop for completion?
11. Is it going to be cheaper to make or buy?
12. How much is your time worth?

I’m sure all of you could add nicely to this check list! It’s different for everyone, but these issues are paramount for me.

Does it always work? Nope. But it has pulled me up short enough times, to help retain that small amount of sanity I’m desperately clinging too… of course my friends will freely tell you I don’t have any.

I love my friends too.

< Back to Wearables >

Janice Lowe from Australia had so much fun making one of our cutwork-applique vest, that her imagination took off. I happen to consider that the ultimate in compliments.

Her creative endeavors became a three-piece outfit (pants, shirt, and vest) that she entered in the Nabiac show.

She won! Not just one award, but two: Champion and Supreme Champion. I feel like a proud mom over here. Way to go Jan - we’re cheering you on from this side of the pond.

Below are the pictures Jan sent. Thank you again Jan for sharing with us your wonderful creation and congratulations on an incredible outfit.

< Back to Wearables >

For this we are eternally grateful to the Show Guardians that watch over the vendors and laugh at us.

Set up took a record 5 actually hours of work this year; that’s the very fastest it’s ever happened. A show volunteer decided to come in today, even though she was scheduled for tomorrow, and asked if we needed help.

It is not an exaggeration to say my YES resounded before she finished her question. I think she spent about 2-hours helping, and I cannot express my thanks enough.

So here are five pictures for you…. from the beginning with dumping everything into an empty 10′ x 20′ space, to the finished booth. Well, there will always be tweaking, but you get the idea.

Time to put the feet up for awhile and just zone out… the cats are holding my place on the futon.

< Back to Wearables >

Join in celebrating the 27th year of the Dallas Quilt Celebration; our booth is called (ahem) Utterly Outrageous Women! Be sure and stop by and say hi.

Hours are:

• Friday, March 14, 10am-6pm
• Saturday, March 15, 10am-6pm
• Sunday, March 16, 12 noon - 5pm

At Dallas Market Hall. 1-35 at Market Center Blvd.

So last night I’m running around like an idiot trying to get stuff done for the show (set up is next week) and failing miserably!

I was trying to get some pictures and Molly just insisted on being a part of the whole thing… so…. I grabbed her furry butt and we have a new picture!

BTW those earphones are attached to my new Shuffle - in Red! Apple had them for $49 - my birthday gift to me. It cranks up REAL LOUD!

Oh yeah, the Mollster is on my lap right now…. the kids really love getting involved in just about everything.

< Back to Wearables >

Anyway, I was going through the newest one and came to the mannequin section. Most are full-size, to scale (remember that - to scale) with the head included. Men, womens, and children’s for store clothing displays.

I scanned two images to share with you - I found them particularly interesting for a number of reasons I’ll explain in a bit.

Now, think about going into your favorite store and seeing an outfit on a display mannequin: you love it! You track down your size and hurry into the fitting room. Five minutes later you’re looking at yourself in the mirror and wondering what you’re doing wrong. This outfit doesn’t look anything like it did on the mannequin!

And my friends, the odds are it never, ever will look like it did on the mannequin. Here are the images I scanned.

Be sure you read the ‘stats’ beneath each image - I took it directly from their descriptions. Oh there were also an equal amount of size 4 models, but I couldn’t even force myself to scan those too. Just curious here, but how many of your friends are 5′-11″ with those measurements? Yeah, I came up with about the same amount: little more then 0, but less then 1.

Then there’s the Plus-Size model; someone want to let me know when a size 12-14 - a 14 by-the-way is the Average size of a woman living in the US - was moved into a plus-size category? Don’t forget she too is 5′-11″ tall. Oh and did you get a good look at her ’shape’? What part of plus-size are you seeing? I’m seeing someone very thin, with no stomach or hips, thin arms, legs and big boobs that will never sag.

And we wonder why clothes don’t look the same on us! NOT.

Want to know what a size 14 really looks like? Well here you go: 5′-5″, 51 years old, and a size 14.

And here’s another view - I keep saying Rubens would have just loved me!

Personally, I like curves… these ‘fantasy driven‘ manufacturers can have their mannequins, I think I’ll just keep on sewing clothes that flatter me; did I mention I really like curves?

< Back to Wearables >