size sewing needle should I
use to hem jeans. I've already
broken 3 needles. See
Several things could be at work here. First the best needle to use is a 16 denim. Second be sure you aren't 'pulling' the fabric through the feed-dogs - that is certainly easy enough to do without realizing it (speaking from way to much experience here!) Third, be careful to go slow enough when sewing over bulky seams. This is where I usually break most needles. I've even hand turned the sewing machine on some particularly nasty seam overlaps. If you're still having problems, you can use a size 19 - though they're harder to find.
||I am sewing
handbags made of multi layers
of fabric, timtex and foam.
I am using an industrial leather
sewing machine to accomodate
the thickness. However, when
we sew thinner fabrics, like
silk, the fabric seems to fray
out at the seems, making the
handbag look worn and old.
I am using Schmetz needle system
134-35LR, 2134-35; Canu: 32:10AX;
Nm: 120. Should I be using
a different needle? I have
to use this machine to accomodate
the thickness of the bags.
The frayed fibers are too small
to cut with an embroidery scissor
but can be seen. See
You're shredding the thinner fabrics. Start with just a size smaller on the needle - if that doesn't work, take it down another size... keep this up until you've got results you can live with. The thinner fabrics such as fine silk don't take kindly to large needles or holes poked into them.
||The gold thread
I am using for topstitching
a Christmas table runner keeps
breaking. Any ideas. My friend
suggested maybe the tension
was too tight haven't tried
that yet. See
Yes, it can be tension - so lets look at these things: upper tension, lower tension, pulling the fabric, stitch length too short, a burr on the needle hole, the wrong size or type of needle, a burr on the needle plate. Also, you might have to add a bit of thread lubricant - BUT before you do, check with your sewing machine manual to see if you CAN use it; some machine will not take kindly to it. Another thing you might try is to run a very fine, monofilament thread through the needle at the same time (double thread the needle) to help cushion the metallic more. And last but not least, your machine might not LIKE that particular thread or brand of thread. I had one machine that flatly refused to sew with a certain metallic thread brand. Nothing, and I do mean nothing would work. I switch brand - no more problems!
||What does each
number of for example a 90/14
needle stand for and thanks
for reading this. See
One of the numbers represents the European metric sizing the other the American. The European metric sizing system for sewing machine needles is numbered from 60 to 110. The American sizing system is numbered from 8 to 18. For both numbering systems, the lower the number the finer the needle and the higher the number the larger the needle.
||How long does
thread last. I have thread
that I bought years ago, should
I get rid of it, or still use
it. Thank you, this is a very
informative site. See
Thanks! As for thread, it's its 100% cotton the shelf life is shorter than a polyester. Cut off a piece of it and tug - see how long it takes to snap. Sew a short section with a straight stitch and do that same thing - tug on the fabric and see how much it takes to snap. That more than anything else, is going to let you know if the thread is still sewable.
||We need a sewing
thread which is heat sensitive
and the basic colour changes
when expose to the Sun light.
This is only yarn and not a
There is a company
called Solar Active that has an
extensive line of color changing
products. You can visit them by
||I have a new
Bernina serger and the only
serger thread sold in my area
is Maxi-Lock. My dealer told
me that other brands are better
but that this is fine. I don't
know if I should order a "better" brand
on-line or use the Maxi-Lock?
Try the Maxi-lock - if you don't like it (or your serger doesn't) then order a few spools of something else. To be honest, I've used Maxi-lock for years with no problems. On my regular machine, I use a variety of threads; Coats and Clark for only very basic sewing - their just not my favorite. The bottom line is personal preference. Try a few and then decide. It's between you and your machine.
||I want to do
a satin stitch on a circle,
and the inside of the circle
contains batting for trapunto.
Should I attempt using metallic
thread to do the satin stitch,
or do you not recommend metallic
thread for satin stitching? See
Ahh good old metallic
thread! Now it really and truly
depends on the thread and your
sewing machine. Some metallic threads
handle satin stitching beautifully;
other break every 1/8 of an inch.
So, what you need to think about
- How does your machine deal
with metallic thread in general?
it prefer one brand over another
(mine refuses to sew with any
Sulky Metallic thread - go figure).
- Are you proficient enough
with both sewing with metallic
thread AND sewing a smooth satin-stitch
- Do you have size 16
needles or special metallic sewing
needles on hand?
- Do you have
some monofilament thread available?
I've run a double strand of metallic
and monofilament thread together
to help prevent breakage. I'd
also suggest, since you're going
to be working with enclosed batting,
that you run a straight stitch
along that circle first to prepare
the area: hold the batting into
place and stop shifting.
- Yes you NEED a backing stabilizer;
I use a heavy tear-away paper/pellon.
Cheap and effective.
line is: are you comfortable
doing it? Is your machine happy
with the thread? Do you have
the right needles? Are you ready?
want to identify my hand
sewing needles by number
and type. How do I
achieve this? See
come in ten sizes. # 1 very coarse - # 10 very
fine (also called a quilting sharp or between).
Just remember: small number, thick needle; large
number, thin needle. The most common types:
- Sharps are
medium length needles, used for general sewing.
Most other hand-sewing needles differ mainly in
- Embroidery needles
(crewel) are exactly like Sharps but have a longer
eye for easier threading.
- Betweens are shorter
needles, good for handwork - and I use them for
- Quilting needles normally are from
a 7 to 10 Between.
- Milliners are
longer needles. Many people use these for basting
and if your eyes aren't quite at good as they use
to be :).
- Calyx-eyed Sharps are
open at the top for easy threading for people that
just cannot thread that needle.
- Beading needles
are very fine, long needles.
- Tapestry needles are
heavy needles with a blunt point.
- Chenille needles
are very like tapestry needles but have a sharp
- Clovers needles
have a tapered point with three sharp edges to
pierce leather without tearing.
- Darners are long
needles- used for basting and darning with cotton.
darners are the heaviest needles with large eyes.
am making a tulle overskirt
for a "princess" dress
for my grand daughter. What
is the best size needle to
A standard size 11 or 12 is fine for the sewing. But you need to either do a double seam (straight line of stitching, trim to 1/4" and then another straight line of stitching); or a narrow zig-zag, or my preference, serge it- a nice narrow or rolled seam. But make sure you test before sewing to control the tension.
thread is raveling when
sewing satin stitch what
do i do to prevent this? See
Several things could be causing this. 1. Wrong needle - too small. 2. Bad needle - burr on the end.
3. Sewing too fast.
Depending on your sewing machine (you'll have to check with your dealer) you can use a product that will help the thread; Sewers Aid. Last - but I've had this happen more than once -the thread could be just plain bad.